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As far as I know, Tristar is a variety of fenugreek developed by Agriculture Canada in Lethbridge AB for forage production. Once again, to the best of my knowledge, there is no seed available. I don't believe that fenugreek (for forage) has been fully tested but it appears to have some benefits. The majority of the fenugreek grown in the praires (and I don't think it is very much) is grown as a spice and for nutraceticals.
W.D. (Bill) Awmack, P.Ag.
Quality Seeds West
bill@qualityseedswest.ca
Different crops have different baselines. But your request (not the first) is justified. We will try to put in a utility that allows a user to set their own baseline temperature.
Canada Revenue Agency (CRA) website: http://www.cra.gc.ca
CRA business information service: 1-800-959-5525
GSH/HST for Agriculture: http://www.cra-arc.gc.ca/E/pub/gm/4-4/4-4-e.pdf see page 4 and the top of page 5 of this document regarding GST and hay sales.
I guess the first response is the earliest to plant a crop around Kimberley is when the soil is dry enough to work and be planted. Depending on where they live from Kimberley (south of Kimberley – generally a south aspect; northeast of Kimberley, generally a NE aspect), suspect there could be a week difference in getting on the fields. So there is no magic date, but would think mid May would be in the ball park. Farms in the valley are planting in early to mid May just depends on how the weather is cooperating. Also, no difference if planting alfalfa or an alfalfa grass mix. One thing a few folks are doing is planting their alfalfa a bit later (June – if irrigated), just to make sure the elk are moved on and will not come back to eat all the lush new green shoots!
Darrell Smith, P.Ag.
Resource Stewardship Agrologist
Ministry of Agriculture & Lands
250-489-8507
Cranbrook, B.C.
Please see our composting cedar shavings page.
One of the easiest cover crops for a vineyard is the native grasses and weeds that will grow back. With occasional mowing, broad leafed weeds will gradually decline. If the field is allowed to fallow prior to planting, you can identify the weak areas of the field because weeds will be slow to grow back there. Map these areas with a few photos because these will be the weaker areas of the vineyard after you plant and will require special attention. There is no single "best" cover crop. Legumes will assist to build up organic matter because they fix nitrogen. Grasses will consume nitrogen and help to control excess vigour, but your organic matter will gradually decline.
There are texts and on line information sources about cover crops but they may or may not apply to your situation. Start with the simplest solution and then adjust your strategy when you detect problems.
Gary Strachan, Summerland, BC
Hiring an Ag Engineer to do your earth works is a great idea, but please be sure they understand the need to properly remove and return top soil as part of the process. There are many examples in the Valley where terracing was done that did not respect the need to carefully replace top soil and the land was destroyed for grapes or any crop production. I am not aware of any Ag Engineers in the Kelowna area. I think you should to ask local vineyard operators if they can recommend someone. For irrigation, I would recommend Craig Roth at Nulton Irrigation (not in your area but worth contacting).
Dr. Pat Bowen
Research Scientist, Viticulture and Plant Physiology, Agriculture & Agri-Food Canada
Terraces require a lot of planning. The first consideration is the type of subsoil. If there is a non permeable layer beneath, there is danger that a heavy runoff will sweep the terrace off the hillside or at the very least cause serious erosion.
Drainage for the terraces must be planned very carefully and permanent sod created quickly and well maintained.
Narrow terraces with single rows or a few rows can be difficult to cultivate safely. Try to make the terraces as large as possible.
Vines which are located on the outer edge of a terrace often have exposed roots. The exposed rooted areas also warm more rapidly than deeply rooted areas and dry out more rapidly.
Rows which run across the fall line of a hill are dangerous to work because a tractor tends to dog track downward, especially on wet grass or clay soils. Cultivation will gradually create terraces in this situation by drawing soil from the uphill side of the aisle to the lower side. The uphill plants will have roots with shallow soil coverage (see above).
The headland turning area should be as level as possible to minimize the chance of rolling a tractor when turning. Headlands should allow seven or eight metres for turning.
Gary Strachan, Summerland, BC
Answer: zero degrees celcius (0oC).
I am interested in whether there is any initiative to allow BC wineries to sell their wines at Farmer's Markets? Apparently it is allowed in Washington and Oregon, and the Ontario Farmer's Markets are trying to get an initiative going there. It would be a great addition to our Farm Markets, it is a true farm product as BC winery licensees must use 100% BC fruit, and it pairs well with many of the other products sold at farm markets.
Keith Watt, Proprietor
Morning Bay Vineyard & Estate Winery
6621 Harbour Hill Drive, Pender Island, BC V0N 2M1 Phone: 250-629-8351
Reply to info@farmwest.com
We've asked the question before, but so far no support from government. It seems a natural for small local wineries. One option is to take orders at the market and then have the wine delivered directly from the winery to the purchaser. This is a legal option. Wineries in Ontario tried to get permission to sell at Farmers' Markets and actually got interest in parliament but the bill didn't pass.
Gary Strachan, Summerland BC.
Please email comments to info@farmwest.com
We have done a lot of pasture/hay field renovations over the years with no till or minimum till. We found the best results with this method:
We use chain harrows behind an aerway knife areator loaded up with a one tonne block to breakup compaction, loosen the soil and to remove fine stemmed and rooted (lawn type, invasive grass). This provides a bare soil area for new seed while leaving productive bunch type grasses( orchard, fescue etc.)
We seed with a Landpride powered knife opener overseeder at 40 lbs per acre and top dress with 100 lbs of 18-18-18 or similar root building fertilizer.
Works out to about $ 350.00 per acre plus transport.
Any questions call Ian Jones at 250-751-4644.
Midnight Oil Ag Service
Canadian Sheep Federation Website http://www.cansheep.ca/english/id_e.htm
The book "Advanced Silage Corn Management" has a chapter on Corn Pests.
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There are many factors that will affect silage both in and out of the silo. Factors that affect silage fermentation include:
Temperature: The rate of microbial metabolism is increased by a rise in temperature. Any benefits to be gained from storing silage at a temperature above ambient or from permitting temperature to rise in silage will be influenced by the temperature optima for the microorganisms within each group represented in silage.
The onset of fermentation at 40oC is more rapid than at 25oC, and the rate of decline in pH is greater at 38 or 45oC than at 30oC. From these few examples of the effect of temperature on the silage fermentation, one would be justified in concluding that an elevated temperature in silage is desirable. One might also conclude that heating would result in a wilt of the ensiled material and thus benefit fermentation. However, any positive effects of increased temperature on the lactic acid fermentation are nullified by the fact that this also encourages the growth of clostridia, resulting in the formation of butyric acid and ammonia with an attendant depreciation in nutritive value of the product. The consensus of opinion is that heating or high storage temperatures in forage crop silage should be avoided and that temperature should not exceed 30oC.
Reference: The Silage Fermentation by Michael K. Woolford
Woolford, M.K. 1984. THE SILAGE FERMENTATION. Microbiology Series (Ed. Al Laskin and R.I. Mateles). Marcel Dekker Inc., New York
For a specific crop, set the actual planting date. The CHU calculations start counting from zero on your planting date. For example, if you plant on May 1, the difference between the graph and your CHU is the accumulation of CHG from April 1 to May 1.
To know the typical heat units for your area (to chose varieties) set your usual planting date and look at the over years average.
Shabtai Bittman
Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada/Agriculture et Agroalimentaire Canada
The BC Ministry of Agriculture tree fruit and grape specialist is Jim Campbell. His phone number is: 250-498-5254 and email is: Jim.G.Campbell@gov.bc.ca
Soil tests can be done at various locations. Laboratories are listed in the Best Practices for Grapes publication available through the BC Grape Council at bcwgc@telus.net. However soils usually are not the limiting factor as grapes will grow in a wide range of soils as long as they are well drained. More critical are frost free days, minimum winter temperatures, growing degree days and sufficient sunshine. A good discussion of site evaluation is found in the Best Practices Guide and can provide some guidance for site selection. Do not rely on climate change to plant grapes in marginal locations. Grape plants can be purchased from a variety of sources depending on the rootstock and varieties see the following website for some sources - http://www.grapegrowers.bc.ca/vine.shtml. Hope this helps.
Jim Campbell, PAg
Industry Specialist, BC Ministry of Agriculture and Lands
Mix approximately one third of a cup of 5.25% sodium hypochlorite (unscented laundry bleach) per 100 u.s. gallons of tank capacity every week. The chlorine will dissipate more rapidly in hot weather or if organic material is present in the tank. Do not use pipeline sanitizer or swimming pool chlorine. To determine gallonage of a square or rectangular tank, multiply in feet: (length x width x depth x 7.5). To estimate gallonage of a round tank, multiply in feet: (diameter x diameter x depth x 6). Cover or shade the tanks to help slow algae growth.
Brett Henschel
Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada/Agriculture et Agroalimentaire Canada
Dawson Creek, BC
henschelb@agr.gc.ca
Algae, Cyanobacteria and Water Quality - Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada
For Chase, the irrigation requirement is about 24 inces of water per year for grass. The irrigation system flow rate should be 5 - 6 USgpm. You have 120 USgpm - this would be enough water for 20 to 24 acres.
With a grass crop, it would be recommended to move the system two times per day. The rooting depth is only 18 inches and if the system is run too long more water will be supplied than the crop can utilize.
Andrew Petersen, P.Ag., CID
BC Minstry of Agriculture and Lands
Email: andrew.petersen@gov.bc.ca
http://www.cbif.gc.ca/pls/pp/poison
I don’t know of any Canadian sources. Almost all field corn is hybrid – the only open pollinated corn that I know is a sweet corn, Golden Bantam; that was available from West Coast Seeds in Delta (604-952-8820).
W.D. (Bill) Awmack, P.Ag., Quality Seeds West Phone: 604-574-7333 or Toll Free (BC/AB): 1-888-770-7333 Email: bill@qualityseedswest.com
Any comments? Email info@farmwest.com
I've found that pellet bedding works best when soaked. All you have to do is lightly sprinkle them with water until they have expanded into a moist saw dust, don't worry they dry pretty fast. This way your horse won't get bored and think that they're food and expand in his stomach. Janelle Bauder janelle.anne@hotmail.com
Piles of manure contribute to under-grazed areas of the pasture, because horses will avoid these areas. Manure piles should be scattered periodically, by dragging a chain harrow, spiketooth harrow, or other similar implement across the pasture. Harrowing the manure will promote uniform grazing. Additionally, breaking up and spreading the manure piles may also help to reduce parasite populations. A good time to harrow the manure piles is shortly after the horses have been rotated to a fresh pasture.
If you just want to break up piles of manure, I would go with the chain harrows. I believe that a "pasture harrow" is just another term for a "chain harrow". The other harrows used for cultivating are steel diamond lattice structures with prongs sticking down into the ground. These are used to break sods after plowing, cultivating etc. Comments? Email info@farmwest.com
The BC market does buy hay - mostly alfalfa. Traditionally it comes from Washington, usually 1st and 4th cuts. I would guess that the amount of hay going into that market has decreased but not sure by how much. My impression is that more is coming out of Alberta but not sure what's happening now with the dollar. The hay is usually bought through hay dealers so unless the hay producer has a good relationship with a dairy producer in the Fraser Valley (where 70% of the industry is and the rest of the province can grow their own alfalfa), it would be advisable to phone up several and see if there is a demand.
Most of the dairy cows are fed grass or corn silage with several pounds per head fed as alfalfa for effective fiber. There isn't much timothy or other type of hay imported as that can traditionally be grown in the valley. If the producer was able to grow low-potassium alfalfa, he would have a special market because almost all close-up cows are fed low potassium alfalfa and sometimes it's hard to find.
Dr. Mary Lou Swift, Research Scientist
We have often asked why there is little BC grown alfalfa used in the Fraser Valley. The answer was usually that there is insufficient quantities and reliable supply of hay of adequate quality in BC so alfalfa dealers have found it more convenient to import. So if the grower can make some private arrangements, there is no special reason why it would not work. It’s more about business than agronomy.
Dr. Shabtai Bittman, Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada/Agriculture et Agroalimentaire Canada
In order to get full grown chickens of a specific breed, you will have to find a local breeder. The other option is to purchase chicks from a hatchery (such as Rochesters in Alberta). They will sell specific breeds in the spring and ship them almost anywhere. They will sell some breeds sexed, otherwise you get a mixture and eat the roosters. There is also a hatchery in Abbotsford, but I don't know the name of it.
We have a good supply of used hazelnut trees for host trees for Black Perigord Truffle, giving a dual crop to the hazelnut farmer. Ducketts Trufflierers, Phone: 1-250-248-9336 or email duckett@bcsupernet.com Thank you, Betty.
The Pacific Agri Research Centre in Agassiz has a small test orchard of about 120 trees of many varieties from around the world. The only hazelnut propagator in BC that I know of is Armand Gamp. He operates Gamp's Nut Nursery in Langley. The Hazelnut Grower's Association may still be active and Armand may be able to put you in touch with them in order to get growing advice.
Brian Harding, PARC, Agassiz
Sorry, but we no longer carry hazelnuts (filberts) and they cannot be imported.
Geoff Anderson, Cannor Nursery, Chilliwack
The best time of the year to apply commercial fertilizer on a non-irrigated pure alfalfa stand in the Armstrong area would be either in the fall (September, October) or as early as possible in the spring (typically mid to late April). This allows time for the nutrients to reach the root zone of the alfalfa plant by using our natural (and sometimes sparce) winter precipitation. Nutrient requirements for fields will vary, therefore recommendations should only follow soil testing by an accredited lab.
Iain Sutherland, A.Ag., CCA
Agronomist, Okanagan Fertilizer Ltd., Enderby, BC
Email: iain@okfert.com Phone: 250-838-6414
Here are two websites that contain this information:
http://www.agf.gov.bc.ca/resmgmt/publist/600series/649000-2.pdf
http://www1.agric.gov.ab.ca/$Department/deptdocs.nsf/all/hrs5278
The Food and Agriculture Organization of the UN (FAO UN) has growth curves for many different crops. http://www.fao.org/
Cattle warts (Infectious Papillomatosis) is caused by a host specific papillomatomavirus that is rarely serious but causes warts to appear on the skin of the animal. Warts are usually confined to the neck and shoulder region but may be formed on other areas such as teats and penis. Cattle under two years of age are most susceptible and the condition usually clears up within six months without any treatment.
The virus gains entry through any skin abrasion. The time taken for warts to develop after infection can be from one to twelve months.
The four most common type of warts are squat, pendulated, flat and tags. They appear as raised hairless lesions (varying in size from a pea to a tennis ball). It is common for large warts to bleed especially by rubbing which can, in some instances, lead to bacterial infection that may require treatment.
In chronic infections some animals may lose condition, be stunted and very rarely death may occur. Should any doubt arise as to the seriousness of the wart infection in your cattle, the assistance of a veterinarian is highly recommended.
Source: http://www2.dpi.qld.gov.au/health/3572.html
IAF's Livestock Waste Tissue Initiative issued a contract to Genesis Projects Corp (Lynda Skene) for a report to be produced on this topic a while ago. The draft report is done, but the final report has not been put on their web-page yet. Contact Rick.VanKleeck@gov.bc.ca to ask if there is a final version and to get a copy of the report.
In terms of contacts I think it would be a good idea to contact Swedish Biogas (see below). They run several AD plants with primarily slaughter waste as their feedstock (75%).
More info is available in the attached pdf: US Biogas Tour of Sweden.
I can also be contacted directly if you require a more thorough discussion:
Gustav Rogstrand
Waste Management Engineer, P.Eng., MSc
BC Ministry of Agriculture and Lands
Resource Management Branch
1767 Angus Campbell Rd
Abbotsford, BC V3G 2M3
Canada
Telephone: 604 556-3111
Does anybody know the answer to this question? Please email info@farmwest.com
What is your application rate? How much manure mixture - how much land? How often are you spreading?
The UBC dairy located at the Agriculture Canada Research Station in Agassiz, B.C. haven’t had any canulated cows for several years. However, there is a public viewing area to watch the cows being milked. They milk every day at 3:00 pm.
researching answer ...
I'm not sure where to get that kind of $ info other than the local grocery stores. Perhaps BC Tree Fruits could help: http://www.bctree.com/
The biggest question that comes to mind is, “What rootstock is the tree propagated on?” This will determine the ultimate tree size as well as how to train and prune the tree and whether it needs supporting. The info should be on the tree label from the nursery. If it isn’t, you could try asking the nursery (they might use one rootstock all or most of the time). Other points:
1. Dig a hole twice as wide and twice as deep as the root ball. Mix good quality compost, or peat, in with the soil. Add some back. Plant the tree so the soil is at the same point on the trunk where it was in the pot. In particular, do not bury the graft union or the tree may scion-root. A bit of high phosphorus fertilizer might be good too. Water well. Keep up the adequate (not excessive) water throughout establishment (1-2 years). I presume you are spring planting, not planting right now. If planting now you may have some trouble getting through the winter. It would be better to wait till the tree is dormant if you want to plant now or in fall. Skip the fertilizer if fall planting.
2. Check the soil pH and N P and K values and electrical conductivity (measure of salinity). Amend as necessary.
3. Pollinizers: are the “fruit trees” two lots over apples or crabapples? If yes, you should be okay assuming you have compatible pollen and bloom at the same time your Spartan flowers are open. Other Spartan trees will not be good pollinizers for your tree. If you find you are getting lots of flowers but not lots of fruit, you could later graft in a branch or two of some other variety or a crab apple for pollen.
4. If the tree is in a pot and is 8 ft high, the root/shoot ratio might be out of balance unless the pot is very big. Often trees are headed at planting but not in all training methods. If you do head it, make sure you don’t go too low or you will have very low branches. If the tree has a lot of branches already, it would be nice to keep them. Pruning will set the tree back to some extent but if you are in stressful conditions after transplanting, it might be a good idea. In general when pruning aim for a pyamid or Christmas tree shape (NOT AN UMBRELLA!) and do some thinning cuts to make sure you get good light penetration into the canopy interior. Remove any branches that are more than ½ the diameter of the trunk. If the branch angles are very sharp, you might need to weight them down with something to a position slightly above horizontal for better tree vigor control and better fruit bud production.
5. Be prepared to do a lot of work to grow good quality apples. You might need to spray for pests, especially if you have codling moth in your area which will make the apples wormy. Also, you must thin the fruit to get good size and prevent alternate bearing. Thin within 6 weeks of bloom and remove all but the king (central and usually largest) fruit, keeping king fruit 6 inches apart on the branch. Aside from the fruit size issue and preventing alternate bearing, this will also cut down on bug problems in many cases. If you have a vigorous rootstock, the tree will get very large and this will take you many hours on a ladder eventually.
6. Google the internet for specific recommendations for your area. Most provinces have a specialist with the provincial government or a university that can give you technical information specific for your growing area. This would include recommended rootstocks, tree training, what pests and diseases you are likely to encounter etc.
Cheryl
Summary of Rules for Pruning Bearing Trees
1. Cut out broken, dead, or diseased branches.
2. Where 2 branches closely parallel or overhang each other, remove the least desirable, taking into account horizontal and vertical spacing.
3. Where possible, prune on the horizontal plane; that is leave those laterals on the main branches that grow horizontally or nearly so, and remove those that hang down or grow upward.
4. Thin all varieties to permit thorough spraying and the entrance of sunlight and air.
5. Where it is desired to reduce the height of tall trees, cut the leader branches back moderately to a well-developed horizontal lateral.
6. Prune the lower branches of broadheaded or drooping varieties to ascending laterals.
7. Varieties that tend to produce numerous twiggy, lateral growth should have some of this growth removed to prevent overcrowding.
8. Make close, clean cuts. Stubs encourage decay and canker, thus forming a source of injury to the parent branch or trunk.
9. Prune moderately. Very heavy pruning is likely to upset the balance between wood growth and fruitfulness, and generally should be avoided.
10. Prune regularly. Trees that are given some attention each spring are more easily kept in good condition than trees that are pruned irregularly.
11. Prune that part of the tree where more growth is required. This is particularly important with old trees. New growth will be stimulated only in those parts of the tree that were pruned. Reduce pruning to an absolute minimum where growth is already excessive.
12. Do not remove a branch unless there is a very good reason for doing so. Leaves are the food-manufacturing organs, and if the leaf area is reduced unnecessarily, the tree will be reduced in growth or fruitfulness or both.
Source: http://www.omafra.gov.on.ca/english/crops/facts/00-005.htm
http://www.eap.mcgill.ca/CPTFP_7.htm - very detailed, lots of diagrams
http://www.gardenline.usask.ca/fruit/prunapp.html - good site for a home gardener
http://www.lawn-and-gardening-tips.com/fruit-tree-pruning-instructions.html#trees – a good, simple site
http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/fv_maintenance/article/0,2029,DIY_13825_2269645,00.html - good and basic
http://resources.cas.psu.edu/TFPG/pruning/slide27.htm - a slide show with pictures and written descriptions.
Darrell-Lee McKenzie
Agriculture Canada, Summerland Research Station
There is a wide variety of regulations at municipal, provincial and federal levels as well as local government bylaws that producers are expected to follow. The Farm Practices Protection (Right to Farm) Act stipulates that the farm operation must meet the Health Act, Pesticide Control Act, Waste Management Act and regulations under those acts.
Other Acts of special interest to mushroom growers include the federal Fisheries Act, the provincial Power Engineers and Boiler and Pressure Vessel Safety Act and local government bylaws on Site Coverage, Noise and Lighting.
There is a lot to think about when considering building a mushroom farm. For this reason I would suggest that anyone requiring detailed information contact myself at 604-556-3057 or via e-mail at Jennifer.curtis@gov.bc.ca.
Jennifer Curtis P.Ag.
Industry Specialist
Greenhouse Vegetable / Mushroom
BC Ministry of Agriculture and Land
Industry Competitiveness Branch
tele: 604-556-3057 or 1-888-221-7141
fax: 604-556-3030
See the following web links:
A good horse pasture seed mix has a number of different components such as:
1. sod-forming grass(es) to handle traffic and to prevent horses from 'ripping' the grass out (which is how they graze as opposed to cows that chew the grass off)
2. coarser grasses that provide more forage nutrition
3. no or little clover content (which can cause founder)
As far as I'm concerned there is no single type of grass that's best - a mix (which usually includes timothy) covers the requirements better than any single species. You do not need high protein (for the way most horses are used) which is why timothy is often used. Horses tend to prefer coarser grasses (rather than the fine ones preferred by sheep and llamas).
In most cases, early spring planting is preferred although early fall (September) can be a good time for establishing a pasture. It is crucial to leave animals off the pasture for as long as possible - the longer the better to allow the pasture to get established (otherwise the horses could ruin it). I recommend a minimum of 3 months (where the pasture is actively growing) before putting horses on it. You may have to 'clip' the field (with a mower) if the grass is getting too tall.
Specific Horse Pasture mixes (one for the BC Coast and one for the BC Interior) are available from Quality Seeds West, Surrey, BC. Phone: 604-574-7333 Toll Free (BC/AB): 1-888-770-7333
W.D. (Bill) Awmack, P.Ag., Quality Seeds West
bill@qualityseedswest.com www.qualityseedswest.com
Regardless of the animal species it is being grown for, good pasture has a number of key characteristics, including:
Generally, grasses meet more of these characteristics than legumes, however, legumes can be a valuable component of a pasture. The plant species selected will depend upon your geographic location, need and/or availability of irrigation, and the type of livestock you are pasturing.
One of the most adaptable pasture species for much of the southern parts of BC is orchardgrass, as it has many of the key characteristics listed above. Other species suitable for this area include tall fescue. In the south coastal area, perennial ryegrass is a useful plant. In the central and northern areas of BC, more winter hardy species, such as meadow and smooth bromegrass, creeping red fescue and bluegrass may be used. In the very dry areas of BC, drought tolerant species, such as crested wheatgrass or hard fescue are more suitable.
Legumes, such as alfalfa and clovers, add quality to the pasture mix, but are not as tolerant of grazing as the grasses, and may cause bloat in ruminants. Very high quality pasture, such as lush clover or alfalfa, may also cause laminitis, or founder, in horses. In addition, pasture for horses should not include alsike clover, as this plant can cause photosensitization and liver damage in horses.
One of the most suitable pasture species for horses is Kentucky bluegrass, as this sod forming plant is very tolerant of close grazing, and recovers well from skid marks and divots that often occur from horses.
For cattle and sheep, a pasture containing orchardgrass and white clover (75% grass, 25% clover) is very good where adequate moisture is available. In the colder and or drier regions, meadow bromegrass and alfalfa (also in 75:25 ratio) is more suitable.
Llamas do well on pastures suitable for either horses or cattle and sheep.
For ostriches and poultry, a higher quality pasture is required for good growth of the animals, so pastures containing a higher percentage of legumes (e.g. 75% clover or alfalfa 25% grass) is more suitable for their nutritional needs.
Source: Government of BC Info Basket
Phone: 604-574-7333 Toll Free (BC/AB): 1-888-770-7333
Comments:
Contact your local Ministry of Agriculture and Lands Offices and ask for a regional Agrologist who specializes in forage. Addresses and phone numbers are available at http://www.agf.gov.bc.ca/ministry/who.htm
